Teeextra - Official Turtle Skull Apathy November & December 2024 Show Shirt

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If you're of the "buy less, buy better" mentality, it isn't hard to justify the higher price. Plenty of Stanley's customers are investment-minded and care about her commitment to ethical, sustainable, small-batch production, but some still need to be convinced that it's "worth" buying one of her dresses instead of five cheaper versions. Lucette Romy, the founder of The Wylde, an organic label handmade in Bali, has had similar conversations with her customers about the higher price of organic cotton, botanical dyes, and dignified labor. "But it often isn't enough to change their minds," she says. So she found another way to get the point across: Every item on her site comes with a cost-per-wear breakdown. Her new organic cotton dress goes for 260 Australian dollars, or $178, but if you wear it 10 times, it's $18 per wear. By the time you've worn it 50 times, it's under $4. If you intend to keep it for years, as you should, that number would come down to pennies. Suddenly it's a bargain.

Those customers also understand the importance of supporting modest businesses instead of massive corporations—and that "shopping small" comes at a higher cost. Scale is the other elephant in the room: Typically, the more units of a garment you produce, the lower the price per unit gets. That isn't an explanation for dirt-cheap clothes because labor should be a steady cost, but sewers may be able to work a bit faster as a result of repetition. The price of fabric changes at scale too. If Stanley, Roche, and Romy could triple the size of their businesses, perhaps their prices would come down a little, but that isn't their goal. The larger a company gets, the more difficult it becomes to keep track of the supply chain; we all remember how certain well-known brands didn't even know their clothes were being produced in the collapsed Rana Plaza factory.

Serre isn't the only designer showing the popcorn top. London-based designer Chet Lo, who was in the Fashion East collective for spring 2022, has been working with the fabric for years, turning it into chemical green polos, fuchsia miniskirts, and electric blue corsets. His creations have graced the bodies of Kylie Jenner, Doja Cat, and SZA. Issey Miyake, not only the prince of pleats but also the king of stretch, has long been churning out popcorn tops, some of which look like tiny deflated balloons. Other labels pumping them out include Stella McCartney, who made a clingy royal blue hoodie, and Mara Hoffman, who made a citrusy tank dress with a scalloped feel. That sold-out piece was worn by Beyoncé back in July. Now, what more proof do you need that the popcorn top is ready to, well, pop.

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