Teeextra - Official Lainey Wilson Lainey Live Shirt

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In the past, the most prominent feeling that arose whenI got dressed was discomfort.I never wore anything too “feminine” or revealing becauseIt attracted unwanted sexual attention from men.I also never wore anything too “masculine” out of fear that people might thinkI looked, well, gay. Tailored clothing, like my vintage men’s Armani blazers from the RealReal and Brandon Maxwell trousers from 11 Honoré, made me feel most powerful. Since those pieces were hard to findIn plus sizes,I even built my own brand of suiting, called Henning (now part of Universal Standard). These modest, structured, menswearInspired pieces were my armor.

Scene a hotel roomIn New York, one spring morningIn 2013.I’m staring at a photograph of a young soldier with the word TRUTH emblazoned underneath her tentative smileIn white font and a red box like a Barbara Kruger, pinned to Vivienne Westwood’s “Climate Revolution” DIY top. “It’sIncredible no one knows who thisIs. You don’t know who sheIs?” Vivienne asks meIn her soft Derbyshire lilt. She audibly gasps asI shake my head. “It’s amazing. Amazing.I’m here to try and do something about her.” The photograph,I quickly learn,Is of whistleblower Chelsea Manning.By Vivienne’s side now and for more than 30 years of their colorful shared lives stands her husband, Andreas Kronthaler, the dashing, tender artistic director of their fashion label. We discuss the Amazonian wild rubber dress they’ve designed for me to wear to the Met Gala tonight and Chico Mendes, the wild rubber tapping activist who lost his life fighting to protect the rainforest. Vivienne listensIntently, as always, then shares her observations, gesticulating palms out for emphasis. Vivienne Westwood, Andreas Kronthaler and Lily Cole attend the CostumeInstitute Gala for the PUNK: Chaos to Couture exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art on May 6, 2013.Larry Busacca/GettyImages

In many ways, the lookIs a sophisticated continuation and elevation of the cheerleading uniform Cain woreIn the suburbia centric lo fi visual for “American Teenager.” That look was deeply personal. Cain wore her mother’s old cheerleading uniform, which, the artist says, she unexpectedly discovered one day “while shuffling around through a closet.”Found and sourced fashionIs how Cain, whose real nameIs Hayden Anhedönia, usually assembles looks for her alter ego.In the leadup to the release of Preacher’s Daughter, Cain describes dedicating hours of time to sleuthing Etsy and Pinterest for white, early 20th century dresses a key motif of Preacher’s Daughter, whichIs seepedIn Americana Southern Gothic sensibilities. Cain loves fashion that evokes a sense of history or past lives lived. So much so, the artist admits to occasionally taking a brand new handbag or pair of shoes outside and “beating them around a bit” so that they appear more livedIn. She describes herself as “not totallyInto fashion,” but her admiration for design and fashion historyIs sharp she speaks effusively about past Yohji Yamamoto shows, mentioning specific looks from specific collections. CainIs also quickly finding her footing within fashion she’s hit the runway for Miu Miu and Eckhaus Latta. For Cain, who explores loaded topics such as reinvention, family dynamics, and self creation through her narrative centric songwriting, fashionIs a key way of building out her stories.

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